9 April 2020

Train to Trieste, by Domnica Radulescu


Domnica Radulescu’s 2008 Train to Trieste is an example of the genre dealing with life in communist Romania and emigrating to escape it, allowing comparisons to be made with both an insider’s and an outsider’s perspective: other examples are Herta Müller’s The Passport, Roxanne Veletzos’s The Girl They Left Behind, and Ioana Pârvulescu’s short story ‘A Voice’.  Train to Trieste charts the life of Mona Maria Manoliu as she grows up in Romania, moves to Chicago in her twenties, then in a short final section returns to Romania two decades later to seek answers to old questions – and receives a remarkable surprise.

Living in Bucharest with her parents, teenage Mona spends her holidays in the Carpathian city of Brașov with her aunt, uncle and cousins, and at the age of 17, in 1977, falls in love with the enigmatic and older Mihai, whom she sees on her visits.  He disapproves of her anti-regime sentiments, and starts wearing a leather jacket, a garment favoured by the Securitate; then she is warned by another woman to be careful of him as he has links to the secret police.  She wonders to what extent she can trust him.

Her father, a university lecturer, is part of a dissident group, which makes life increasingly difficult for him, and for Mona, as family members too are treated with suspicion.  People are having ‘accidents’ in the street, her father is arrested and beaten, then demoted, and she herself is routinely followed and has a frightening encounter with a menacing government goon.  Following her love for literature she uses the British and American libraries in Bucharest, further casting her loyalty in doubt.

In her early twenties life has become so difficult that Mona’s family decide she should leave Romania.  She escapes via Belgrade to Trieste, then on to Chicago as part of a sponsorship programme, helped by incredibly kind and selfless people along the way.  Her journey to Chicago mirrors that of Radulescu’s own in 1983, and is a similar trajectory to Veletzos, who was born in Bucharest and moved to California as a young woman.  Mona does not say goodbye to Mihai, but he had been such a significant part of her life that she is shocked to hear later that he was killed on Christmas Day 1989, shot by a random bullet in the street.

In Chicago Mona makes a life for herself, putting her Romanian past behind her.  She works hard, gets married, has children, gets divorced, takes degrees, her parents join her, she moves to Indiana to take a teaching job, Ceaușescu is overthrown, her beloved father dies.  She decides to visit Romania after a gap of twenty years, both vicariously for her father, who never really took to America and longed to return to the old country one last time, and on her own account, to find answers to nagging questions about the past.

Despite the book’s title she does not take the train to Trieste when leaving Romania because the chance of detection is too high, rather hitching a ride with an Italian in his little Fiat and passing as his wife.  On her return trip, though, she does take the train, but in the opposite direction.  Her visit enables her to clear up mysteries about her father, Mihai, other people in their circle, and her escape, in a lengthy and rather clumsily presented conversation with an old friend of Mihai’s.  The poignant ending promises the opening of a new chapter, and the final integration of her Romanian and American identities.

It is impossible to tell the extent to which we are reading a novel or autobiography, or something in between.  The early sections feel fictional, but once Mona moves to America the writing takes on the character of memoir; or perhaps it always had that character, but life under Ceaușescu was so strange it is bound to feel like fiction to an outsider.  She conveys the political situation and what everyday life was like in Bucharest and Brașov in the 1970s and ’80s, but the writing is particularly vivid when describing family life and the beauty of the Carpathians.

Mona is not impressed with post-Ceaușescu Romania, expressing the disappointment shared by those who, like her father, had opposed the communist regime, at how little had changed in the years following.  But while she has a good life in America, she also retains a certain ambivalence towards her adopted homeland.  This is symbolised in the references to food: the tastiness of Romanian home cooking versus the terrible quality of mass-produced food in the land of McDonald’s.

A key moment in the novel is writing a competition essay at the age of ten on why she loves her country.  Mona thinks about the melancholic longing expressed in the supposedly untranslatable word dor, a more profound emotion than nostalgia and part of the way Romanians define themselves.  Her essay conveys how she would feel should she lose her country by imagining the lost past she has heard about from her father (suitably edited for an official audience).  Sentiments clearly chiming with the judges, she wins first prize.  She may not think much about the word in America, but it is there, inside her.  In a sense, despite moving across the Atlantic she never leaves Romania at all.