27 February 2019

In Limbo: Brexit Testimonies from EU Citizens in the UK, by Elena Remigi et al (eds.)


The aptly titled In Limbo: Brexit Testimonies from EU Citizens in the UK, by Elena Remigi, Véronique Martin, and Tim Sykes (eds.), is a 2017 compilation of responses by EU citizens living in the UK to the Brexit vote, and very sad and moving reading it makes.  The entire Brexit shambles is embarrassing for the UK anyway, but Remigi and her colleagues have outlined its human cost.  These are perspectives Brexiteers ignore, and probably don’t care about, but they need to be heard.

Since the vote, the UK’s stock in the world has diminished: it has been shown to be run by an incompetent government more concerned with keeping the Tory Party together than about the country, a country which is xenophobic, arrogant, small-minded, full of poorly educated people who do not have a clue about how the modern world works, and possessing contempt for what it sees as ‘the other’.  Who can blame outsiders for seeing us this way when many Britons do?

The foreword by George Szirtes mentions a leave voter saying he wanted to prevent all illegal immigration, as if it were synonymous with EU freedom of movement and would stop with Britain leaving the EU.  Many people believed the malicious propaganda, and still do, not realising how critical the role played by EU nationals in the UK economy.  They surely will, when it is too late.  In the meantime, this book shows the human cost, and anybody who is not concerned by that should be ashamed.

In Limbo is full of testimonies of hard-working people who have made a significant contribution to this country.  It is not totally representative, because it is drawn from accounts posted online, excluding many people.  Others were afraid to participate because they feared repercussions (which says something in itself) and also unrepresented are those involved in low-skilled work who perhaps have poor English skills.  Naturally I checked to see if there were any Romanian entries, and found three.

Nicoleta (pp. 27-8) came to the UK as a ‘highly skilled migrant worker’ before the UK labour market was open to Romanians, and had to obtain a visa waiver after being headhunted.  She had previously worked in the USA and South-East Asia, resulting in her being highly skilled at no cost to the British taxpayer.  Her assumption that her identity as eastern European would indicate someone strong who had prospered despite growing up in a repressive regime was shattered when Romanians and Bulgarians were characterised to her as an ‘invasion’ of ‘third world Europeans,’ despite her significant contribution to this country.  She has too many friends to quit the UK, and is going to fight, because she feels ‘the Europeans, East and West, share a dream with the 48% [of Britons who voted remain] that is worth fighting for.’

Teordor Lingurar (p. 144) had been living in the UK for ten years but still found it difficult to gain permanent residence, his application having been turned down twice despite providing evidence of National Insurance for that period.  ‘The reason given to me by the Home Office was that they could not establish that I was residing in the UK.’  It is perhaps more cock-up than conspiracy, but shameful either way.

Diana Wright (pp. 171-3) grew up during the Communist period, in difficult times for the country and in straitened circumstances for her family.  Aged 13 in 1989, the UK government’s ‘authoritarian approach to Brexit’ has caused her to think back to her childhood memories.  She achieved a post-graduate education, and when moving to the UK created her own job, rather than ‘stealing’ it from a British citizen.  She has a British husband who loves Romania and they lived there for six years.  They moved back for their daughter’s education, but found the system wanting and home-schooled her.  Diana is upbeat, because there are other places to live in the EU, not least Romania itself, with a good standard of living and protected by EU standards.

Those behind the book run a blog, https://www.inlimboproject.org/, which continues to collect testimonies and highlight the problems and uncertainties EU citizens in the UK face.  What an indictment of this country as supposedly civilised and outward-looking.  In 2018, Remigi and colleagues published a follow-up, In Limbo Too: Brexit Testimonies from UK Citizens in the EU, a less-well publicised part of the fiasco.

23 February 2019

198: How I Ran Out of Countries*, by Gunnar Garfors


Gunnar Garfors made a bet he would visit all 198 (at the time, by his calculation) countries in the world by the age of 40, and his 2014 book (English translation 2015) is a sketchy diary of his trips.  He states near the beginning that he abhors travel guides because they ‘reduce creativity and destroy impulsiveness.’  Rather, he wants to arrive with an open mind and find out from locals what is worth doing.  It is one strategy, though the traveller risks missing out on activities a guide covers but an informant doesn’t mention.  In Garfors' case it hardly matters because he has so little interest in the places he passes through in pursuit of his goal.

Romania has a page (pp. 159-160) in a section mainly devoted to culinary experiences.  It begins with a flimsy descriptive whirl that takes in the heaviness of the Palace of the Parliament; Ceaușescu; Timișoara, where the 1989 revolution started and where years later Garfors met a local named Flory, upon whom the revolution had made an impression though she was only a child; Flory lives in Sibiu, ‘not far from Transylvania’, Garfors not realising Sibiu is in Transylvania (cue Dracula reference anyway); a sentence on the plot of Stoker’s novel; hey, there was a real Dracula, ‘Vlad III Dracula’, who killed a lot of people ‘thereby earning the moniker Vlad the Impaler.’

Flory is not keen on the Dracula link, unsurprisingly, though appreciative of the tourism it brings.  However, ‘People should come to Transylvania for the beauty, not the beast,’ as she puts it, and Garfors agrees, though he still feels the mystique of the area is due to Stoker.  Garfors goes to Sibiu where he has a meal with Flory and her Polish boyfriend.  Flory is enthusiastic about the local cuisine, causing Garfors and the boyfriend to poke fun at her claim that all the dishes are ‘famous’.  Then the trio sample the nightlife, though the music is loud.  Romania, Garfors opines, is like most Eastern European countries in that the girls dress ‘extremely sexily’ to be noticed, which Flory accomplishes with style.  Then he leaves her and her boyfriend as the music is too loud.  Next entry: Dominica for half a page.

Garfors states he has not written a guidebook, something ten seconds browsing would have made clear anyway.  This reader was left puzzling about the point of what he has written, apart from the implicit invitation to express wonder at his achievements, because as travel writing it is singularly valueless.  And the Romania entry is not unique: he manages an entry on Russia remarkably saying nothing about Russia, it is all about him driving nice cars while on conference jollies.  On this evidence, Gunnar would have been well advised to invest in travel guides to use as a jumping-off point for his own explorations.  Then we could perhaps have heard more about what he found and less about his ego.

*The asterisk in the subtitle refers to a note on the title page: ‘By Visiting Random People on Incredible Travels to Every Country in the Whole Wide World’ (capitalised in the original).  Random sums it up nicely, and we could agree on incredible as well, though not in the sense intended by Garfors.

15 February 2019

Romanian hyperpedestrians

Paul Pârvu, Gheorghe Negreanu, Alexandru Pascu şi Dumitru Dan















Fortean Times 376 (February 2019) carries an edited extract from Jan Bondeson’s book The Lion Boy and Other Medical Curiosities.  The article deals with hyperpedestrians: these are mostly men who walk extremely long distances, including round the world.  There was a craze for this occupation around the turn of the twentieth century, but it was killed off by the First World War.  Naturally it was an unregulated field, with non-standardised routes and often unverifiable claims.

The major hyperpedestrian Bondeson covers is German-American George M Schilling, but he includes a variety of others, including four Romanians who set off to walk round the world.  These were Dumitru Dan (often spelled Demetre Dann in newspapers), Gheorghe Negreanu, Paul Pîrvu (or Pârvu) and Alexandru Pascu.  The four were students in Paris in 1908 when the Touring Club de France announced a contest, with 100,000 francs (one for every kilometre covered) offered to the first person who walked round the world.  Bondeson’s FT article gives a brief account of their journey, but there is plenty of Romanian-language material available on the quartet.

The intrepid Romanians decided to enter the contest and returned to Romania to prepare.  They learned folk songs and to play instruments so they could support themselves, not being allowed to receive external funding during the journey, and between them had a good spread of languages.  In 1910, wearing traditional costume and accompanied by Harap the dog (it seems virtually all hyperpedestrians took dogs), they set out on their circumnavigation.  There were about 200 competitors in all, but the four do not seem to have been unduly worried about being beaten through starting late.

Much of the detail of the journey relies on later reminiscences by Dumitru Dan and cannot be independently verified.  He states that they plotted a route which appears eccentric but was designed to avoid wintery conditions as much as possible.  Even on board ship they kept walking, marching round the deck for up to 12 hours a day in all weathers, using a form of pedometer to record their mileage and asking the captain to verify the distance.

Unfortunately, the expedition was beset by tragedy.  In 1911 Alexandru Pascu died from opium poisoning after indulging with the Rajah of Bombay.  Gheorghe Negreanu died the following year after a fall navigating a mountain pass in China.  Paul Pîrvu made it to Florida but he had injured his legs and developed gangrene.  Dumitru Dan left him with Harap to recover but despite having both legs amputated, Pîrvu died in 1915.

So Dan was left on his own to continue, but it was not a good time to try to cross continental Europe and although he was back in Romania in 1916, he completed his epic journey only in 1923 when he walked from Bucharest to Paris.  He claimed the prize, though the amount was much reduced by inflation, having passed through 74 (or 76) countries while walking over 62,000 miles.  Dan had worn out 28 national costumes and nearly 500 pairs of traditional footwear.

Unsurprisingly Dan became a geography teacher, and in later years lectured extensively on his youthful travels.  He died in 1978, the sole survivor of a remarkable expedition, and is buried in the Heroes’ Cemetery at Buzău.  He has a very nice monument adorned by his bust and casts of part of a globe and a pair of opinci, and an inscription attesting to his role as an ambassador for Romania.

 

Update 7 November 2020:

Opinci/My Father’s Shoes (2019)

An 18-minute animated film about the expedition, Opinci/My Father’s Shoes, directed by Anton and Damian Groves (2019), was shown as part of the online 2020 Romania Rocks: Romanian-British Literature festival.  The film was introduced by Roger Bunyan, author of the book Against All Odds. The Stories of 25 Remarkable Adventurers, which includes a chapter on Dan.  He provided an overview of Dan’s and his companions’ endeavour.  Bunyan’s daughter lives in Bucharest, which gave him the opportunity to investigate the story.

It is a beautiful film, told by an older Dan to his young daughter Steliana, the story of the four friends related in flashback.  The pair live alone as they come to terms with the loss of Stelaina’s mother who died in childbirth, and the father-daughter relationship is touchingly conveyed.  Steliana was born in 1929, and the final moments cut from the animation to film of her being interviewed in old age.  The film is dedicated to her, the four companions, and Harap.  For a short film the impact is powerfully moving.

The screening was followed by a Q&A with the English directors Anton and Damian Groves, illustrators Maria and Ileana Surducan, plus Bunyan.  It was particularly interesting as it shed light on the animation process, real actors wearing large papier-mâché heads used as the basis for Dan and Steliana, cut into the animated scenes.  The undertaking was complex, and the end result took almost six years, but it was worth the effort.

The directors talked about the tone they achieved, making the film suitable for both children and adults despite dealing with themes of hardship and loss.  They ended with the hope that, like Dumitru Dan before it, the film will travel the world.

 

However…

In checking the claim that Dan had been included in the Guinness Book of World Records, I discovered an article from December 2019 which casts considerable doubt on the veracity of his story.  Blogger ‘Davy Crockett’ situates Dan’s global perambulation within a brief tradition of hoaxing in which fraudsters claimed to be in a competition organised by the Touring Club de France or similar organisations.

Crockett, who has done extensive research on hyperpedestrianism, notes that it is a field full of exaggeration.  He points out that the main source for Dan’s claim is an interview given late in life which the World Records organisation took on trust when including him in the 1978 edition, despite discrepancies with lectures he had given, certificates he had acquired, and what newspaper coverage exists.

He subjects Dan’s claim to extensive scrutiny and concludes that ‘most of his story was fiction,’ full of contradictions and falsehoods.  There was no competition, and the Touring Club de France’s focus was on cycling and latterly motoring, with no interest in pedestrianism.  The distances he said he had travelled were covered implausibly fast in the conditions of the time. (I have to say I had wondered where Dan and his companions sourced all those pairs of opinci as they travelled.)

Dan’s story changed over the years and there is convincing evidence, based on surviving records, that the trips to Africa, Australia, Central and South America, Asia and Alaska did not happen.  In fact he fought in the 1912-13 Balkan War and the following year was in various Western European countries.  There was no newspaper coverage of the alleged finish in Paris in 1923, surprising in itself for such a significant achievement, and which an organisation would be expected to milk for maximum publicity.

Thus, Pascu could not have overdosed on opium in India, nor Negreanu fallen off a cliff in China, because Dan was never in those countries.  Their involvement (and that of Harap), if any, remains murky despite the famous photograph of the quartet.  Pîrvu was actually a Hungarian living in Ohio who spent three months travelling with Dan in the midwestern United States, and he died in 1938.  Otherwise, evidence suggests Dan travelled alone.

While conceding we will never know for sure, Crockett estimates that Dan probably walked no more than 5,000 miles in Europe and North America, assuming he really walked between towns, for which there is no independent verification.  The analysis is compelling, and it is all rather sad to discover Dan was a fraud.

Presumably Roger Bunyan did not reach the same conclusion as Crockett when writing his book, or was too polite to mention any reservations during his introduction to Opinci and the subsequent Q&A, as he took the standard narrative at face value.  It seems the evidence was there all the time, but nobody (including the museum at Buzău, which spent a large sum developing a Dumitru Dan section) had bothered to look because it was a great yarn hearers wanted to be true.

 


Update 22 March 2023:

Despite Dan’s dubious claim, an exhibition dedicated to his feat (pun intended), Around the World on Foot: The Story of the 497 Pairs of Opinci, has just opened in the city of Ath, Belgium.  Marking the centenary of the conclusion of Dan’s tour, the exhibition, which runs from 18-31 March 2023, includes personal items, documents from the journey, and 20 images.  There will be lectures and a showing of the Groves’ film Opinci.

It is organised by the Brussels Romanian Cultural Institute, Buzău County Museum, Buzău County Council, the RoAth Association (‘connecting the Romanian cultural heritage with the inhabitants of the Ath region’), Wallonia City Hall and the Embassy of Romania in the Kingdom of Belgium.  The opening was attended by the Romanian ambassador, in addition to representatives of the participating associations.  So it is a pretty big deal.

Celebrating a Romanian hyperpedestrian in a provincial Belgian town may seem surprising.  The event has been mounted to mark International Francophonie Day, observed each year on 20 March to celebrate the French language.  A statement by the organisers provides the following rationale for the focus on Dan:

‘To mark the International Day of La Francophonie, ICR Brussels considers the project to be in line with the objectives of the Organisation Internationale de la Francophonie "to promote and protect the diversity of cultural expressions in the policy of supporting cultural heritage and artistic creation as a new form of human solidarity."

‘Also, “Around the World on Foot. The story of the 497 pairs of opinci" is a project designed to strengthen the ties between the two cultures, by (re)discovering and knowing the "other", paralleling the Romanian cultural past and values vis-à-vis the Belgian ones, in a city where folklore and traditions served as the starting point for a renewed campaign to promote them.’

One might deduce from the waffle that there was a certain amount of head-scratching to think up notable links between Romania and Belgium.  The reason given for the exhibition’s location in Ath is that according to the Buzău museum director, Daniel Costache, it is only 10-15 kilometres away from the point where Dan entered Belgium on 18 March 1914 en route to France.  As Dan received a transit paper, and there are other documents indicating his presence in the area, it is clear at least this part of his journey was genuine.

The publicity though recounts Dan’s claims uncritically and does not indicate that there are good grounds for scepticism, but as the Buzău museum is involved, and it is in their interest to promote Dan, it is hardly surprising.  If only his travelling companions had survived, we would have had independent corroboration that Dan is worthy of the exhibition and the accolades.

 

11 February 2019

Bucharestless


Bucharestless (2011) is less a city symphony than a free-flowing jazz session, circling round the Romanian capital, picking elements here and there to build a kaleidoscopic picture of those everyday details that caught the filmmakers’ eyes.  Directed by George Dorobantu, the 93 minutes show aspects of Bucharest as organism, parts of which are barely noticed by those going about their business.  Unlike a chronologically-structured portrait we circle around, returning to scenes showing that while in some ways the city changes, in others it stays the same.

The title captures various forms of restlessness: Bucharest is a restless city, subject to changing light, weather and seasons, never the same from one moment to another.  The camera is restless as it pokes around.  The inhabitants it gazes at are restless as well.  This is not primarily about people though; in fact we rarely see faces.  Many of those shown are elderly, shuffling round with shopping bags, just getting by, but there are opportunities for leisure and play as well, and green spaces in which to relax.  Cats and stray dogs are plentiful, leading parallel lives.

Elements of architecture are included, but not primarily the touristy bits nor the new developments.  Mostly we see scruffy-looking apartment blocks, and even the more elegant buildings are often decaying.  When new buildings are shown, it is often at odd angles, or only as abstracts, suggesting an alienated view of the urban landscape.  As significant as the macro level is the micro level, nature keeping a toehold in an unpromising environment with ants and beetles flourishing among the detritus humans discard.  The overall shabbiness is a long way from the tourist board-favoured heritage view of the Paris of the East, but it is generally a vibrant shabbiness.

The film may seem artless, its makers merely strolling round with a digital camera, taking random shots and stitching them together, overlaid with a pleasant musical accompaniment.  And no doubt there was much walking about hoping for interesting things to turn up.  But there is structure (the film is divided into 16 sections though these are not obvious to the viewer) and some of the shots have been subjected to processing, moving away from the film as a slice of reality.  The result is immersive, a documentary that gets under the skin of the city, and in a hypnotic way gets under the skin of the viewer too.  But whether an emphasis on the tiredness of the infrastructure is a fair reflection of reality can only be judged by Bucharest’s inhabitants.

The film is available through Cinepub on YouTube: