28 September 2018

The Last Hundred Days, by Patrick McGuinness


Patrick McGuinness’s first novel The Last Hundred Days, published in 2011, was shortlisted for the Costa First Novel Award and made it onto the Man Booker longlist.  Its unnamed English narrator arrives in Bucharest in 1989, at the tail end of Nicolae Ceaușescu’s regime, and becomes an eyewitness to history.  Despite not having turned up to the job interview in England and having dropped out of higher education without obtaining a degree, he has been offered a job teaching at a university in Bucharest.

His unlovely parents dead and with no ties, he heads off to a country socially and ideologically entirely unlike his own, though the fat cats do well under both systems, and a shameless trickle-down system of corruption thrives in Romania (he is unembarrassedly ripped off at the airport by customs officers who pillage his belongings in front of him with the laconic explanation ‘tax’).  He is assigned the flat of his academic predecessor, the mysterious Dr (or rather ‘Dr’) Belanger, who has left all his possessions, even his clothes, behind.  Belanger, off screen for nearly the whole book, casts a long shadow over the narrator’s life.  The unorthodox job offer may seem an implausible beginning to the novel, but in the surreal world of 1989 Bucharest it comes to feel unremarkable.

The narrator falls in with another expat Briton, Leo O'Heix, also a lecturer at the university, who had wangled him the job apparently on the grounds he would be easily manipulated.  A bogus degree certificate is provided for the newcomer so he is good to go as a lecturer (a doctorate costs extra, an investment Belanger presumably made).  The new boy has no qualms about accepting fraudulent academic credentials, nor, as soon as he arrives at work, in acceding to a ‘request’ from the head of department to provide a reference to study abroad for a student he has never met.  He is compromised morally from the start, but then compromise underpins daily life in Bucharest.  You do wonder about the state of Romanian education at that time if someone without a degree could just stroll in and start teaching, but on this evidence not much teaching was going on anyway.

Leo is in fact the star of the novel around whom much of the action revolves.  He devotes little time to his day job, instead dabbling in the black market, as cynical about daily life in Bucharest as everybody else.  On top of his other activities, legitimate but mostly otherwise, he is writing a book: initially commissioned to produce a guidebook to Bucharest, its sturdy old buildings are being torn down so quickly and replaced by shoddy blocks that he cannot keep up, and like some crazed Walter Benjamin he engages in a futile psychogeographic race to record Bucharest in his The City of Lost Walks even as it disappears around him.  At the same time he tries to save what he can from destruction, part of a network spiriting artefacts away from the bulldozers.  A church’s rood screen may end up in a minister’s flat, but at least it is preserved. 

Even the best of us can have mixed motives, and Leo is no exception.  Despite his boorish, frequently self-serving, ways Leo has a sincere affection for his adopted city.  He is scornful of Romanian politics, but equally scornful of the British diplomatic corps which turns a blind eye to the regime’s dark side in the name of good relations and business opportunities, trying to insulate itself by recreating a small slice of home (down to a pub) yet not immune to the corruption infecting the rest of the population.

On the surface the regime seems stable despite shortages and general ossification, but there are murmurings across Eastern Europe as communist governments lose their grip on power.  Through Leo, the narrator comes into contact with a wide cross-section of Bucharest life.  He has a brief relationship with the daughter of a senior party official, but a more fulfilling one with a doctor at the local hospital.  At one point he is briefly involved in a people-smuggling ring trying to help individuals reach the west, an expedition ending in tragedy.   Then he meets Sergiu Trofim, a once senior figure who had known Ceaușescu and Stalin but is now on the social periphery, and agrees to help Sergiu write his memoirs – or rather real memoirs dishing the dirt, rather than the sanitised party-approved version he is being obliged to produce, the unexpurgated typescript to be smuggled out and published in Paris.

In these various interactions the narrator quickly finds people are not always what they seem, trust is a precious commodity, and life can be disconcertingly arbitrary.  Through his eyes we are given a convincing overview of what living in a repressive society does to the psyche.  McGuinness draws out the soul-sapping ossification and apathy of daily life, showing that routinisation kills the spirit more effectively than naked repression.  Propaganda everybody sees through is pumped out; nobody believes the statistics but everybody goes along with the deception because it is the only way to survive.  The prevailing mood is one of ennui, or ‘totalitarian boredom’.  You never know who might inform on you, so the best policy is self-surveillance.  In such ways one becomes inured to the discomforts and paranoia, even finding comfort in surveillance, thereby internalising the state’s repression (something Orwell had put his finger on).

For much of the novel the focus is on the narrator, Leo and their circle.  Only in the final third does it shift to the wider political currents, an edifice crumbling like the jerry-built buildings infesting the capital.  The reader brings historical knowledge of the outcome, but from the inside the slow yet accelerating slide to the fall is initially so imperceptible it barely registers.  Despite the book covering the last few months of the Ceaușescu government, for most of that period it must have felt secure despite the injustices and economic stagnation.

The reader knows how it is going to end, and an air of inevitability hangs over the progress towards Christmas Day.  It is part of McGuinness’s skill that he can elicit sympathy for the way the deposed dictators (for it was a joint enterprise with Elena Ceaușescu, and she bore most responsibility for the bloodshed in the final days when Nicolae was in Iran) were treated and summarily executed without due process, rather than glee at them having received their just deserts.

However, will the new politicians be any better than the old ones, leaving aside that many of the old ones have retained their hold on power?  As Leo ruefully notes, ‘new brothel, same old whores….’  Neither Leo nor the narrator has anything to go back to England for, and despite having their visas revoked by the defunct regime, the novel ends with them in Bucharest, looking forward to the future, however things pan out.  For all its faults, there was something about the place which would not let them go, and now it was not the Securitate.

We are never sure how much of this is autobiographical – the narrator certainly seems to rub shoulders with powerful and influential people in ways that seem far-fetched in an Englishman newly arrived – but the observations of Bucharest feel authentic.  McGuinness was in the country at the time, and as he was born in 1968 he was the same age roughly as the protagonist.  It is difficult, however, to believe there is much autobiography in the novel, apart from eyewitness descriptions of living conditions and the events leading up to the fall of Ceaușescu.

There is a tension between the realistic depiction of Romanian life and the implausibility of the acceptance of the narrator into these social structures in a society which McGuinness emphasises was deeply paranoid.  For all his protestations that he is being pushed to the margins, the narrator seems to find himself, thanks to Leo, in the thick of things with no effort, whereas in practice he would have been frozen out.  He even manages an unlikely, albeit brief, relationship with a party princess, putting him in touch with her father who happens to be the deputy interior minister, despite possessing little to commend him to her; and this while she is still in love with his predecessor, the aforementioned Belanger, a gangster who had been living in exile in Belgrade but who returns to take advantage of opportunities opening up in post-Ceaușescu Romania.

In such ways the narrator, in a very short time, smoothly manages the transition from foreigner to insider.  In a conspiratorial society, the fewer the conspirators the better, for reasons of personal safety, and I could not see in whose interest it was to have him around.  In real life he would doubtless have been on a plane back to England within a month, having annoyed everybody and been useless at his job, but unlike Leo having no leverage with which to retain it.  Most probably, even though he has been in the city several years, Leo would have fared little better in terms of access to influential individuals, however many bribes he offered.  These outsiders are effectively ciphers for McGuinness’s exploration of the dying regime, but ring false.

The World's Greatest Railway Journeys: Hungary and Romania


Format: DVD

Rail Away APWDVD 1097

According to the box, this DVD is one of a series presenting over 50 worldwide railway journeys.  It covers Hungary and Romania, sadly devoting a mere 25 minutes to each.  Both films are dated 1997 and display modest production values.  The films are not solely about the railways; in fact they take a while to get to the topic, instead devoting time to scene-setting in the respective capitals.

That may annoy the railway buffs, as may the fact these are not specialised examinations of the railway system of either country but are essentially travelogues, with the emphasis on the journey rather than the means (though naturally there is some information on the trains).  For those not of such a persuasion, they may be pleased there is nothing of a technical nature and the commentary is pitched at a general audience.

The narration is by an American, and I found his pronunciation grated after a while.  The musical accompaniment is off-the-shelf, which reduces costs but is a shame when the country’s music could have been employed to great effect in enhancing the atmosphere.  The tone of the narration tends to be patronising, with much about the quaint old-fashioned way of life in Eastern Europe.  The box’s blurb quotes part of the narrator’s introduction to the Romanian leg:

‘Romania, a country on the borderline of the Middle and East Europe. By rail we travel from the capital Bucharest to the heart of the country. In a way travelling through Romania is like travelling through time. At places where the rails cut through the country, we see pictures that in the West belong to the past. We'll visit the centres of Bucharest and Brasov. With their little bricks and old-fashioned houses these cities provide romantic scenery.’

This is an all-too common way of describing Romania, in terms of picturesque primitivism.  The Hungarian film covers two separate journeys starting in Budapest, whereas the Romanian one focuses on a single journey from Bucharest, travelling north to Ploiești*, Sinaia, Brașov, and ending at Vatra Dornei, a distance of about 265 miles.

There is a limit to what can be included in under half an hour but it still possible to admire the countryside, even if the commentary is at times frustratingly bland about the sights along the way.  Little time is spent on Bucharest compared to the amount the Hungarian film spends on Budapest as there seems to be more to see outside the capital in Romania.

Naturally much has happened since 1997 – not least admission to the EU – so the Romanian film is not representative of the current state of the railway system, but it is still a useful introduction to that particular route.  One cannot help feeling, though, it was a missed opportunity to explore the country’s rail network more broadly, and enthusiasts are probably going to feel short-changed.  Both films are available on Youtube.  This is the Romanian episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTyQnspr5bc.

* By chance I discovered today that the Romanian artist Geta Brătescu, who died on 19 September 2018 aged 92, was born in Ploiești.

27 September 2018

Romanian colours in random places!


'Romanian' muffin cases:

When I saw these muffin cases I thought there was something familiar about them.  This is exactly the order in which they were placed in the packaging.


27 September 2018


Histon, Cambridge, Sunday morning:


25 July 2021


Histon, Cambridge, Thursday morning:


7 April 2022


My kitchen:


1 June 2022


E.ON logo:


25 July 2022


My wardrobe:

5 August 2022


Popped up on Facebook:


5 September 2022


Impington Village College sign:


12 January 2024

10 September 2018

Uneasy Rider, by Mike Carter


Published in 2008, Mike Carter’s Uneasy Rider is an account by the author of his six-month ride in 2006 on a large BMW R1200GS motorbike through 27 European countries, covering almost 20,000 miles and travelling as far as eastern Turkey.  The impetus for this epic ride was Carter having reached the age of 42, ‘the nadir of a man’s life’ in his estimation, recently divorced and generally feeling at low ebb.

Despite neither owning nor being able to ride a motorbike, he makes a drunken bet at work, which is sub-editor on the Observer, that he will spend six months riding round Europe (if he had worked at the Guardian nobody would have noticed his absence).  After some training this he eventually does, cushioned financially by letting his London flat and writing progress reports for his paper.  Uneasy Rider is the book of the journey.

One of the chapters (‘What am I doing here?’) recounts his time in Romania.  This was his second visit, the first a holiday in Bucharest five years previously with his then-wife.  He had been suspicious of the locals, fearing they were going to rob him, that Romania was ‘the end of civilisation’.  His trouble-free stay he attributed to luck.  This time, having arrived at ground level rather than by aeroplane, he can see how mistaken his assumptions had been.

His first stop is Cluj-Napoca, where he notices the prevalence of the Dracula theme: ‘the entire population of northern Romania seemed to be working for Dracula plc,’ every town claiming a connection, with the attendant souvenir business.  The one major tourist spot in Cluj is a ‘big statue of a man on a horse’, inviting comparisons in Carter’s mind between Cluj and Nuneaton.  We do not learn the identity of the man on the horse (he is referring to the Matthias Corvinus Monument), perhaps because too much hard information would break the whimsical mood.

In a fish-out-of-water moment he goes to a restaurant to find revellers wearing ‘traditional Romanian peasant costume’ and realises only when the bride enters that far from being ‘fancy dress night’, as he initially thought, he has inadvertently crashed a wedding party.  He leaves his champagne half-drunk and slips away.  Going into a bar called Diesel he gets into conversation with the barman to find yet another person keen to leave the country after Romania joins the EU.  In the nightclub downstairs he meets a ghastly Australian policeman on the pull in Eastern Europe with his mates.

Then it is on to Sighișoara, with its mediaeval citadel which Carter concedes is stunning.  However, the main industry of the place seems to be selling Dracula memorabilia and running Dracula tours.  The house Vlad was born in was now the Casa Dracula themed restaurant.  He looks around, chats to an envious car park attendant who would also like to take off on a big motorbike, and that is it for Sighișoara.

Intending to pitch camp in the forest and dine on vodka and garlic sausage (ho ho) he finds himself in a Roma village ‘somewhere in the sixteenth century’, presumably one of the abandoned Saxon settlements, though we are not told so.  Apprehensive at being there in the dusk (gypsies!), with men carrying old bolt-action rifles in evidence, he is met with warm hospitality.  He is fed, drinks vodka, and plays football with young boys.

Immediately afterwards he is riding along the Transfagarasan, a biker’s dream of a road snaking over the Fagaras Mountains.  Here you feel Romania finally comes alive for Carter as he climbs higher, an experience marred only by the atrocious state of the road surface, with potholes so big people are fishing in some (it sounds preposterous, but he mentions it again later so presumably it was true).  The views are fantastic, complete with a golden eagle riding the thermals, but they are not enough to stop him focusing on the bike and coming back down the mountain at high speed, rather a waste of a fine experience.  It results in an attempted shake-down by a corrupt local policeman and a much smaller fine at the police station.

Then it is on to Turkey.  The chapters are all very abbreviated, with only time for a few wry observations before moving on to the next place.  It is a lightweight tour of the continent and is short on analysis, so do not expect to find out much about the countries visited, including Romania.  This is more about Carter and his machine than it is about the places he visits (the subtext of the journey is to find himself after all).