8 October 2018

The Man Who Cycled the World, by Mark Beaumont


In 2007-08, Swindon-born Mark Beaumont circumnavigated the world by bicycle in 195 days, beginning and ending in Paris.  He had travelled unsupported over 18,000 miles through 20 countries and broken the Guinness world record by 81 days.  Having lost the record in 2010, he regained it in 2017 with a supported circumnavigation which took less than 79 days, a record he still holds.

The Man Who Cycled the World is an account of his first trip cycling/circling the world, published in 2009.  It includes a few pages on the leg through eastern Romania (pp. 97-101) on days 16-19 of his journey, crossing the border from Ukraine. Entering Romania was a process he found easier than getting into and out of Ukraine, a country that for some reason he thought was not part of Europe.  The book is really an amplified logbook with the emphasis on the bicycle and his physical state rather than the places he passed through (‘Don’t ask me what Ukraine looks like,’ he says, ‘as I was staring two metres in front of my wheel all day’).

He seems to have seen more of Romania, which he found attractive: ‘great roads, beautiful villages and scenic rolling hills.’  As soon as he arrived, while studying his map a local shook hands and said ‘welcome to Romania!’  His first stop was Fălticeni and to get there he cycled along roads shared with horse-drawn carts, shepherds in the fields.  Arriving in town and needing an hotel, he asked a police officer in a car who said ‘follow me’ and escorted Beaumont 2km to one (albeit the hotelier was ‘grumpy’).  Beaumont says he was ‘impressed’ by Romania.

The riding was generally straightforward to the town of Roman, though he got lost in Bacău, and he camped in a field near Adjud.  The following day was through more industrial areas, reaching Buzău in the afternoon.  At Râmnicu Sărat he stopped for some supplies and a man standing next to him at the counter took them from him and paid, mentioning something about a bicicletă.  He finished the day in a field near Urziceni.  The temperature was rising and he was conscious of saddle sores.

The next day he passed by Slobozia.  He was feeling weak, having had a small breakfast as he had run out of Romanian currency, but he pushed on to the Bulgarian border.  Unfortunately the border control he arrived at was not open so he was directed to go back up the road and cross the Danube by ferry.  He did not have the fare, however the attendant waved him on to what was essentially a floating platform and he crossed free of charge.  He was close to the border, and entered Bulgaria, en route to Turkey and beyond, in less than a minute.

In the section of photographs there is one of a horse-drawn cart in Romania with the caption ‘iconic images of a world I would have loved to explore more, but the clock never stopped.’